#BloggerContest: Rough Seas and Gentle Rivers – The Magic of Bekal

The realisation that water can be both calmingly gentle and dangerously fierce hit me when I stood on a piece of land at The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal, where I could see the beach on one side and the river on the other. During monsoon, Kappil Beach is truly serene and breat-taking, while the sea is very choppy. A few feet away from it lies the placid Nombili River, with its backdrop of dense coconut trees. It feels miraculous to be witnessing this contrast in nature, knowing that any moment, the overcast skies could give way to yet another expression of water – the all-embracing monsoon.

Far removed from the usual suspects, Kerala is strewn with tranquil pools of paradise that are begging for exploration. This was my third visit to Kerala but never had I set foot in the Kasaragod district before. The landscape was overwhelmingly similar to that of Mangalore and yet, there was a subtle distinction in the style of architecture and the preponderance of tall coconut trees. We entered the resort and felt as though we never left the town behind! The carefully crafted lagoons and thickets mirrored the rest of Bekal. There was a comforting silence in the air, broken only by the chirping of exotic birds. I can confidently say those birds were exotic because theirs is a song that rarely pervades the air of my hometown, Kerala.

At the resort, we were treated to fresh coconut water that tastes so sweet, that I assumed it must contain sugar. But we were told that that thanks to the wonderful soil and climate of Bekal, the coconut water is naturally like that. The veranda of our first floor suite overlooked the resort’s home-grown coconut trees and the backwaters in the distance. While the river was only about five feet deep, we were happy floating across its expanse in a long and slim rowboat. The gentle movement of the oars created the only sound we could hear on that mellow afternoon. Later, we headed to the glistening infinity pool for a surreal swim under the rains. I wonder why I was never tired of being in and around water; maybe it had something to do with being in God’s Own Country.

The next morning, we drove down to Bekal Fort, around 9 kilometres away from the resort. Dating back to the 16^th century, the fort is spread across 60 acres and includes a beautifully landscaped garden and several observation towers offering panoramic views of Bekal Beach. As we climbed up, we were fooled into believing that the water here wasn’t as aggressive as Kappil Beach, back at the resort. However, when we descended the winding path to reach an outcrop that extends into the sea, we were stunned by the force with which the waves hit the rocks and how they exploded into a zillion droplets. It felt like Kerala’s beaches were in no mood to be docile. But that doesn’t deter families with people of all ages from playing with boats on the edge of the water. Boating is a popular family pastime in Kerala and the practice signals the start of the boat race season here. Come Onam in September, the seas will be full of paddled longboats.

As were lost in those thoughts, a sudden downpour sent us scurrying for cover but we emerged shortly to explore the rest of this fort that once served as Tipu Sultan’s military station during his bid to capture Malabar.

Food at The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal is heavy on coconut gravies and Malabar spices and the dishes we tried at the in-house Nombili Restaurant left us wanting for more. The ulli theeyal we had was burstings with the fragrance of freshly simmered shallots and the flaky Malabar paranthas were truly delicious too. However, the star of the show was the tender coconut panna cotta, which was soft and replete with the subtle flavour of coconut. The complimentary servings of fried papad were quintessential of South India, as were the baskets of idli, dosa and upma during breakfast. Our full tummies often found peace on the shores of Kappil Beach, where we used to flop down on the soft sand, surrounded by myriad shells in different shapes, sizes and colours. The waves raced up to our feet in a ceaseless motion and we let them engulf our toes (but no more than that)!

Bekal is dotted with beautiful temples and mosques but the most breathtaking one we visited was situated on the town’s outskirts, en route to Mangalore Airport. Ananthapura Lake Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, boasts of a magnificent statue of the main deity right in the middle of a lake, surrounded by lush green woods and still ponds. We walked barefoot on the slippery stone path. Lurking in the undergrowth was the legendary crocodile guardian Babia, known to be vegetarian and the descendant of several others before its time. Surviving solely on the offerings of devotees, Babia is worshipped by the priests of the temple every day. On that day, we were unable to catch a glimpse of the crocodile and we also made it in time for the mesmerising aarti, which is a hypnotic stream of conches and bells.

Fact file

How to reach: Mangaluru Airport is the closest airport. The town of Bekal is a two-hour drive from there. The nearest major railway stations are Kasaragod and Kanhangad (both 12 kilometres away).
Where to stay: The Lalit Resort & Spa Bekal is situated on the banks of the Nombili River and offers an ambience typical of Kerala’s coconut trees and lagoons and has easy access to Kappil Beach.
When to go: Kerala is gloriously lush and green in the monsoon months although heavy rains can be a deterrent. The months between September and March are also a great time to visit.

Book Your Stay at The Lalit Resort, Bekal!