Muharram: Of Twin Cities and Their Sacred Mourning

Muharram marks the beginning of the Islamic New Year. But unlike other parts of the world, Muslim men and women do not mark the beginning of their year with celebrations, but with mourning. Muharram marks the anniversary of the Battle of Karbala during which not just Hussein Ibn Ali, the grandson of Muhammad and an imam, but several members of his family including women and children were killed. It is, therefore, one of the four sacred months for Shia Muslims across the world. During this time, members of the community abstain from any kind of celebrations, dress in black, refrain from any fights or disruptions and spend their days in reverence while mourning the death of their beloved imam. The mourning days can be particularly severe in places like Lucknow and Hyderabad where people perform painful feats to prove their faith. The month of Muharram will begin on November 3 this year. Here’s taking a look at what happens during this time in the twin cities of Lucknow and Hyderabad.

The processions in Lucknow typically move from the historic Bada Imambara to the Chota Imambara. Photo Credit: Muhammad Mahdi Karim / Wikimedia

Muharram in Lucknow

Known as Azadari in Lucknow, the month sees the passing of several processions, majlises or gatherings, prayer sessions, sermons and other rituals. The month of Muharram has particular significance in this city because it has the largest population of Shia Muslims in the country. This Lakhnavi tradition is as old as the days of Awadh and its nawabs, which was the time when these processions of mourners actually began. Unlike the royal processions, which ended with the reign of the nawabs where camels, horses and elephants were included, the processions today are more solemn and simpler affairs.

Hundreds of Shia Muslims clad in black carry various items including a chattri, pankha and a tazia. The processions typically cover the old parts of the city moving from the historic Bada Imambara to the Chota Imambara. Men are known to beat their chest as a sign of mourning as they walk along. Some even resort to harsher forms of self-inflicted pain by beating themselves bloody with belts and other sharp objects such as swords to demonstrate their grief. Sokme even walk barefoot on burning red coals. It is usually a time of anxiety, grief and pain.

Hyderabad sees several processions during Muharram.

Muharram in Hyderabad

In Hyderabad too, the sights are no different. While elegies and poems of sorrow blare out from loudspeakers in the Muslim strongholds of the city, zakirs will give sermons detailing the events of the battle. Areas such as Darul Shifa, Noor Khan Bazaar and Purani Haveli see mournful processions with men beating their chests as they move along. Hyderabad sees not one but several processions during this time and a separate matam or walk on fire and majlis (or council) for women.

These processions are usually spectacles that are viewed by hundreds of thousands of devotees. Those keen to see the sights for themselves can visit either of these cities during the sacred month of Muharram. For flight and hotel bookings, log on to MakeMyTrip.com.