SURPRISE ME!

Finding Peace in Pemayangtse Monastery, Sikkim

Rakhee Ghelani

Last updated: Feb 2, 2023

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I must confess I am a bit of a temple junkie. I love visiting different religious sites while travelling. Through a region’s place of worship I learn about the way of life for the local people and what is important to them. The offerings are symbolic of what is valued in a particular social space and the art decorating the walls gives a glimpse into the creative instincts of the area. So on a recent trip to Sikkim, I was keen to see the local monasteries and learn more about the local culture. 

Struck down with a stomach bug, I was not able to travel as far and wide as I would have liked, but I did manage to visit the small town of Pelling, which is home to the famous Pemayangtse Monastery. One of its oldest monasteries Pemayangtse, meaning ‘perfectly sublime lotus’, is a significant religious site of Sikkim. As we got closer to the hill compound, the gentle pitch of monks chanting to the rhythmic pounding of the drums could be heard. It was mesmerising.

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 Entering the Trance

Photo Credit: Jadis1958 / Flickr

 

From the entrance of the monastery, we could see  15 monks of all ages, sitting cross-legged on the floor in their robes of intense orange and maroon. With their gaze headed downward, focused on their prayers, in tune with the drums, each seemed as if in a trance. Careful not to make a sound, I held my breath as I watched this very private moment of faith. It is hard not to ignore the raw spirituality and truth you feel when observing someone practice their religion in such deep concentration.

From Darkness into Light

The entrance to the monastery is fenced in brilliant yellow that sets off its dark red walls. Resting against one of the golden coloured window frames was an ancient sky-blue stone, engraved with Tibetan text.

Inside the old building it was dark, but the detailed paintings that had been there for centuries penetrated the darkness in shades of green, blue and yellow. Drums and carvings from as early as the 17th century lined the walls, telling a story of this peaceful monastery.

As I wandered through the quiet gardens, I pondered just how it would have been to live here in these serene surroundings centuries ago. I plucked a small red flower from the rhododendron bush; there were so many flowers in bloom shining vibrantly against the verdant grass. Sikkim is known for its beautiful flora, and is a natural host for the Sikkim International Flower Show. Looking back at the monastery, the monks had now completed their prayers and were going about their day. For me, it was time to slowly head back through the mountains for some rest.

Looking for a memorable holiday in Pelling? MakeMyTrip offers convenient flights to Bagdogra from where you can reach Pelling via bus or taxi.