My Way On Highway: Day 59, Of Eden Gardens And Garam Chai At Flurys

Waking up after a refreshing sleep in our plush room at the Jameson Inn Shiraz in Kolkata was an absolute delight (Thank you MakeMyTrip). The fact that it overlooks a busy intersection on Park Street giving you a great vantage point to see life in the Bengali capital play out right in front of your eyes, is yet another perk. So you can understand what a brilliant location this hotel has to its credit, in addition to the absolutely charming staff that does not even let you lift a finger. Think by the time MyWayOnHighway ends, we’ll be truly spoilt! That reminds me our road trip will end next week on 8^th of July (#sobs).

 

At the Babu Ghat

It is the start of July and the skies have been glistening gray in the ‘City of Joy’, a title Kolkata earned after a 1985 novel written by Dominique Lapierre. Eager to get a slice of the daily festival of human existence of the second biggest city in India, we sped off to Babu Ghat in our car. It was almost 11 am and there was barely any traffic. Surprisingly, the parking gods too were kind as we found a spot quite easily unlike the big adventure we had yesterday. Babu Ghat is one of the many ghats (or steps that lead in to a holy river) embracing the once clean but now murky waters of the River Hooghly from the times of the British Raj. In the present day, the ghat is used by a select few locals who still prefer to cross to the other side using the ferry facility for just 5 bucks. Then there are the bustling crowds using the ghat for bathing and puja on special events like Chhat Puja, Durga Puja and even Jagannath Yatra. The view of the ageing Howrah Bridge aka Rabindra Setu on one side is offered a modern contrast by the newly constructed Vidyasagar Setu on the other.
 

Getting Around

So, you have multiple transportation options to move within the city of Kolkata. The ferry got spoken of in the earlier passage.  We also spotted several yellow taxis making their way to the next passenger. But it were the trams that caught our fancy mostly because they are the only existing tram network in the country and the oldest in Asia running since 1902. No, didn’t get the opportunity to ride one but got plenty of sightings as the tram cars mingled with the regular street traffic.

 

Also, spotted a few hand-pulled rickshaws!

 

The Cricket Flame

The love Indians have for cricket is no secret. But what Kolkata has for the sport is an unadulterated passion. Naturally we had to go visit the place that has witnessed the victorious cheers and losing sighs of many a cricket enthusiast – the Eden Gardens. Not open for public visit, we got extremely lucky to be allowed to see the stadium from close quarters. Think the guard was in a good mood! Really wish the gallery was open for viewing as one can only imagine the momentous treasures that must be gracing the walls there.
 

It will be a sin to talk about cricket in Kolkata and not mention the Mohun Bagan Athletic Club. The India I-League football club is one of the oldest in Asia tracing its foundation in 1889. Situated bang opposite Eden Gardens, the Mohun Bagan is also a ‘members only’ club.

 

Bangali Meal @Aaheli

Our search for good quality authentic Bengali food took us to Aaheli, a specialty restaurant housed in the famous Peerless Inn hotel. Greeted by waiters dressed in elegant dhoti and kurtas, we were led to a gorgeous table that was carefully decorated with little pots of gastronomic delight. Our order for one vegetarian and one non-vegetarian thali was taken. Ten minutes later our table was flooded with several metal bowls carrying one delicious looking dish after another. Our favourites were Bhetki Patori, mustard marinated fish steamed in banana leaf, and Sukto, a lovely concoction of bitter gourd. Our friendly neighbourhood waiter came along just before we were going to progress on to desserts with something called the ‘chutney’.  This sticky sweet and spicy sauce was laden with mango chunks, date pieces and chilli slices. We were told that Bengalis use this delightful treat to prepare their taste-buds for the sweets to follow, which in our case were Kalojam and Payesh. A tad expensive, Aaheli offered nothing short of a feast to us and rightfully earned a Trip Stop recommendation. Will I go back in there again? Undoubtedly, yes!

Baking Happiness

It was not raining but pouring by the time we got back to our hotel after lunch. Honestly, I don’t think there was room in there for food for the next two days but I was able to muster courage to head out again at 5:30 pm. Well, I had to because I just could not bring myself to leave Kolkata without paying homage to Flurys – a unique tearoom that evolved in to being the best bakery in Asia at one time. Founded in 1927 by Mr and Mrs J Flurys, Flurys is the place that had the likes of Lord Mountbatten coming in to plan out the next day’s To-Dos over a cup of tea and scones. Well, my getting there was no short of an adventure in itself for the rain from the afternoon had continued. Tariq, my husband, had dozed off so I armed with an umbrella decided to brave the raindrops on foot. There was no vacant taxi close by. But that was nothing compared to the two stretches where I had to walk in knee-deep suspicious looking water. Flurys was worth every bit the pain I had undertaken to get there and the hype I had heard of it. I think I had the best milk tea of my life there. And this is coming from someone who usually does not like the chai. Maybe the old world charm of the place added more punch to it. You can’t imagine how much Tariq’s been hearing of the ‘best chai’ that I had and he couldn’t! *wink wink*

Tomorrow will see us saying goodbye to Kolkata as we speed off in the direction of Bodhgaya, 470 kms away. Wait for my next blog as I bring you interesting tales from the road journey. See you then!

(Photo Credit: Tariq Khan)