This is one destination with just one thing on the itinerary, temples. These majestic temples surrounded by hills and thick forests were discovered in 1838 by a young British officer, Captain T S Burt. Of the 85 temples built in the 10th and 11th century, only 22 remain, scattered over three locations.
The majority of the temples are in the eastern (Jain) and western group (Hindu), the latter of which is a fenced enclosure and maintained very well. The temples conform to a consistent pattern of an Ardhamandapa (an entrance porch) which leads to the Mandapa (Hall), which in turn leads to the Mahamadapa (the main pillared hall) and finally one arrives into the inner sanctum sanctorum, the Garbhagriha. The sanctum sanctorum seems plain when compared to the profusion of sculptures on the outer walls. All movement from the outer wells leading into the sanctum sanctorum symbolizes man’s journey from earthly preoccupations to spiritual awakening.
The Western Group has numerous temples worth observing, of which Lakshmana Temple is an important one. The entrance of this beautiful Vaishnavite temple shows the trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva along with Lakshmi, Vishnu’s consort. The finely carved sanctum has a three-headed idol of Vishnu’s incarnations, Narasimha and Varaha. The largest, most enchanting Khajuraho temple, Kandariya Mahadeo with its entrance arch, massive pillars and ceilings that are adorned with exquisite carvings, is dedicated to Lord Shiva while the Devi Jagadamba Temple, which is slightly older with simple design elements, was probably dedicated to Lord Vishnu originally.
Facing east towards the rising sun, the Chitragupta Temple is dedicated to the Sun God, Surya. The five feet high image of the deity driving a horse-drawn chariot, in the inner sanctum is particularly imposing. The group scenes on the walls depict royal processions, hunting scenes and group dances, reflecting the lavish lifestyle of the Chandela courts. In the Vishwanath Temple, a three-headed image of Brahma is enshrined and the sacred Nandi bull faces the shrine.
The earliest surviving shrine of the group (900 AD) and the only granite temple of India, the Chausat Yogini Temple is dedicated to Kali. The only temple that is still a living place of worship, the Matangeshwara Temple is dedicated to Shiva. Located outside the precincts of the Western Group, it has an eight-foot high lingam. Near this temple lies the open air Archaeological Museum, which has an interesting display of statues and friezes collected from the remains of long vanished temples.
The Eastern Group, on the banks of the Khajur River, comprises of Jain and Hindu temples. The group’s largest Jain temple, Parsvanath Temple is exquisite in its details. The sculptures on the northern outer wall are particularly noteworthy. Although originally dedicated to Adinath, an image of Parsvanath was installed about a century ago. Lavishly embellished with sculpted figures, the Adinath Temple, dedicated to the first Jain prophet Adinath, lies close by.
The one-century-old Shanti Temple contains many components from older temples around Khajuraho while the Ghantai Temple has a frieze that depicts the 16 dreams of Mahavira’s mother, and a Jain goddess on a winged Garuda.
The Hindu temples of the eastern group lie close to the village and comprise of the Brahma Temple, containing a four-faced lingam, the Vamana that is adorned on its outer walls with carvings of apsaras in a variety of sensuous attitudes and the Javari, with a richly carved gateway and exterior sculptures that dates back to AD 1075-1100.
The Southern Group, which lies 5 kilometres away from the village, comprises of temples that were made when the artists were past their peak but still have a graceful presence. Having been left alone in their natural environs, this set of temples offer an opportunity of a wonderful excursion cycling through the gullies (lanes). Apsaras and jeweled figures are the dominant features of the 12th century Duladeo Temple, which is dedicated to Shiva while a massive, intricately carved image of Vishnu in the sanctum, dominates the Chaturbhuj Temple.
