Witness to the glorious Mughal-era and considered the epitome of architectural splendour and magnificence, Agra's coveted monuments have changed over the centuries. Go on a journey of discovery with Shweta Singh Bawal as she explores the city's relics.
Magnificence, architectural brilliance, craftsmanship...Agra's monuments are often defined by these terms and for good reason too. Every Mughal-era structure, not just in the city but the region as well, is a masterpiece in itself. Be it the grandeur in design or the intricacy in the murals and lapis-lazuli work, every edifice has a distinct characteristic and yet they're all conjoined through their Mughal lineage.
Given its significant past, legends abound in Agra, giving a characteristic distinction to its monuments, gardens, even its pathways. Every nook and corner of the old city has a story to tell, making Agra an intriguing and enchanting city dotted with ruins of monuments that have buried within them, deep rooted parables.
On my recent visit to Agra, I undertook the agenda to explore and unearth some of its lesser known monuments from the fascinating Mughal era. Due to paucity of time, my last visit to Agra had been restricted to work and visiting the conspicuous Taj Mahal (click here to read about that experience). So, this time, I geared up in advance, with an extra day in hand to explore some of the remaining wonders of the city that houses one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
One day dedicated to visiting monuments in Agra! I really thought that would be more than enough, considering its size in comparison to Delhi, the city I currently call home. As I discovered later, I miscalculated. Disorganised traffic and increased two-wheeler and pedestrian population, these were hurdles that I'd already considered. The positives were of course that distances are much shorter. And trust me, after years of living in a metropolitan like Delhi, shorter distances are blessings from God himself. No kidding! But what I hadn't realised was that every monument that I intended to visit was not just a monument, it was a historical relic waiting to be explored, complete with its tantalising tales. So, even though I intended to visit six historically significant venues, including Agra Fort, Jama Masjid and Ram Bagh, I could actually cover just three - Taj Mahal, Akbar's Tomb at Sikandara and Itmad-Ud-Daulah's Tomb. Another lesson learnt for the future.
Anyway, so my last day in the city of the Taj, starts with a visit to Itmad-Ud-Daulah's Tomb, a white marble structure designed along the same lines as that of the Taj Mahal and often referred to as the "Mini Taj". While most people assume that it is a miniature imitation of the Taj Mahal, actually it was built much before the Taj by Empress Nur Jehan for her father, Ghias-ud-Din Beg, the Chief Minister in Emperor Jehangir's court. In fact, this tomb was probably the inspiration for certain design elements that were incorporated in the Taj Mahal later. Both monuments were constructed along river beds, have a similar garden-layout and use of white marble besides similar craftwork like latticework, pietra dura and marble inlay work.
Next is a visit to Akbar's Tomb at Sikandra, on the outskirts of the city (you actually need to cross a highway to get there). Much like the other tomb, Akbar's Tomb is also set in a garden layout, except it covers a larger area and has lush greenery surrounding it. As you step in through the main entrance, you notice the distinct Mughal architecture, but what takes you by surprise is the presence of a herd of deer roaming the gardens here. The sole black buck amongst the grazing brown coats stands out and you can't but be gleefully excited like a child at the unexpected good luck, and continue clicking away through the camera. Once inside the red sandstone structure, you notice the latticework and the beautifully crafted murals. It's amazing how such delicate works of art have survived over hundreds of years; in part at least if not completely. Done with admiring the colourful dome, I notice a passage leading further into the building and follow the damp enclosed path to emerge in a large room with a very high ceiling. From the centre of the ceiling hangs a metal urn, which was probably used as an incense dispenser (there wasn't anyone available to clear doubts). Right under it is the grave of the greatest Mughal ruler, Emperor Akbar. A sole grave with no adornments, it stands alone in that huge room, making you wonder, and in effect poignant, that one of the nation's greatest rulers has been reduced to this - a solitary marble edifice, covered with a thick layer of dirt and mud, standing ill maintained in a dark room.
Moving on, as the day comes to an end, I hurry across town to the monument that is the highlight of any tourist's visit to Agra, what else but obviously, to visit that very monument to love, the breathtakingly beautiful Taj Mahal. I must mention, for the benefit of those of you who have or will read my other travelogue on the Taj Mahal, my intuition that Taj Mahal would be less crowded on a weekday compared to the weekend (my previous visit was on a Sunday) actually turned out to be right. Not only was it less crowded because it was a working day, I guess the milling millions also decided to stay away due to the heat wave that hits Agra at this time of the year (May - July). Be prepared to get scorched, or hope for a cloud cover, which pretty much means that while you won't bake under the sun, you'll still have to bear the humidity. Anyway, weather conditions aside, it's definitely a good time to avoid the tourist rush.
Taj Mahal, in all its white splendour stands predominantly as the king ruling the state, dwarfing the adjoining red sandstone structures, making them look like attendants in waiting. Past experiences always teach me well, so this time I decide to actually visit the Taj Mahal and not just see it from afar, something that I did last time - watched it standing on the platform along the darwaja, the main entrance. As you move closer to the Taj, the white structure begins to tower over you and soon all you see is white, the smooth white marble, beckoning with its soothing coolness. All your misery and cribbing over the heat and pollution and what not, the universe probably, gets transformed to stunned silence as the magnificence of this pearl like enchanting monument seeps in. If you're so in awe that an immediate tour of the Taj seems a distant possibility, as in my case, sit on one of the benches around the platform, and observe from afar for a while.
Keeping in sync with Indian customs, take off your shoes at the designated booths, before climbing up the platform that forms the base of the Taj Mahal.
While much has been said and written about the architectural and decorative nuances of the monuments, very few have taken the time to observe the tranquillity that surrounds it. Obviously, human presence disrupts the peace, what with school children on a day trip (I presume) running helter-skelter beside the tomb on one side and on the other side, infants wailing while their mothers struggle along, tugging at the saree with one hand, holding the baby in another and keeping the siblings under control with a stern look and frequent instructions. This scene, being a norm at most tourist places within our country, is not enough to pull you away from the soothing sensation that the Taj Mahal induces.
For me, this visit to the Taj Mahal has been an overwhelming experience, quite contrary to expectation, since my last visit was an awful experience due to the disorganised security measures and the crowds that I usually like to avoid. The only noticeable flaw within the premises of the Taj Mahal is the lack of access points for the physically challenged tourists. I actually witnessed a foreign national's struggle to find a way down from the platform of the main darwaja, so that he could finally complete the last stage of visiting this World Heritage Site. Imagine the plight of someone who has travelled thousands of miles, possibly undertaking multiple journeys on flights, trains and buses, to finally reach the doorstep of that majestic monument and then not be able to find access because our infrastructure has not been created keeping in mind the needs of all. Tourism facilities in India, be it in service or infrastructure, have definitely improved but we still have a long way to go. Hopefully, we'll traverse and conquer that path soon.
PS - For those who are interested, the gentleman I mentioned earlier was finally helped by numerous tourists who helped him around the complex, picking up his wheelchair in unison each time he had to go up or down a platform. It is gestures like this one that sustain my belief in the overall goodness of our country's populace.
About the author
Shweta Singh Bawal is passionate about travelling and capturing her journeys on the camera. She thrives on good conversations.
Magnificence, architectural brilliance, craftsmanship...Agra's monuments are often defined by these terms and for good reason too. Every Mughal-era structure, not just in the city but the region as well, is a masterpiece in itself. Be it the grandeur in design or the intricacy in the murals and lapis-lazuli work, every edifice has a distinct characteristic and yet they're all conjoined through their Mughal lineage.
, and in effect poignant, that one of the nation's greatest rulers has been reduced to this - a solitary marble edifice, covered with a thick layer of dirt and mud, standing ill maintained in a dark room.
