Jayita Ekka adjusts to the laidback life and absorbs the transformations in the City of Love and mentally makes a note to visit all the historical sites, expecting to unearth more about this historic city.
So I'm here again, for the second time in two years. Nothing much has changed in Agra. The roads are still full of potholes, the heat is still unbearable and the auto and rickshaw drivers as irritating as ever! But I realize, as I zip to the hotel, the humid air sticking to my back, that the roads are lined with shady trees covered with beautiful flowers, the traffic signals are working and that there are cops at regular intervals to assist visitors. As I pass the red sandstone ruins now overgrown with plants, I am impressed with its unique beauty. I adjust to the laidback life and absorb the transformations in the City of Love and mentally make a note to visit all the historical sites, expecting to unearth more about this historic city.
The architectural splendour of the mausoleums, the fort and the palaces are overwhelming even the second time around, and a vivid reminder of the opulence of the legendary Mughal Empire, of which Agra was the capital in the 16th and early 17th centuries. It ceased to be the political centre when the capital was transferred to Delhi by Shah Jahan in 1634. However, the architectural wealth left in Agra by the Mughals makes it stand out on the international map, towering above most in terms of sheer scale, intricacy, and beauty. With all this in mind, I readied myself for yet another visit to the Taj Mahal.
The Taj MahalM is an elegy created in marble by Shah Jahan for his beloved wife Begum Arjumand Bano, and is also known as the Mumtaj Mahal. Built over 17 years, from 1631 to 1648, it was completed with an estimated strength of 20,000 workers who toiled day and night to build the enchanting mausoleum on the banks of the River Yamuna. It is said that the accommodation of the fellow workers near the Taj Mahal resulted in the birth of a new town, Mumtazabad, known as Taj Ganj today.
Part of a vast compound comprising of a main gate, and an exquisite garden in the front, the Taj Mahal has a mosque on its left, a guesthouse on the right, and the River Yamuna behind it. The Taj Mahal stands on a raised square platform with four truncated corners forming an unequal octagon. An interlocked arabesque concept has been applied here, whereby each spire stands integrated with the main structure. The central dome is 58 feet in diameter and rises to a height of 213 feet flanked by a four subsidised domed chamber on its sides.
The mausoleum that houses Mumtaz's grave is decorated with inlaid floral designs proposed by Ustad Ahmad Lahouri, and calligraphy by Amanat Khan Shiraji using precious gems like agate, jasper, jade, and crystal. The archway that is chiselled with passages from the Holy Quran renders a unique charisma.
My next stop is Akbar's Tomb at Sikandra. Akbar started the construction of this beautiful monument himself. Located on the outskirts of the city, the tomb is a perfect blend of Hindu, Christian, Islamic, Buddhist, and Jain motifs. The chamber where Akbar rests is simple, and made of white marble. The complex also houses the graves of Akbar's daughters. Flanked by a well manicured lawn bordering a reserved forest area, deer and peacock often saunter across.
Unfortunately, Akbar died before his mausoleum could be completed and the construction was taken over by his son, Jehangir. The tomb has three-storey-minarets on its four corners. These minarets are built in red sandstone with stunning inlay work of marble.<
Another personification of the Mughal architecture is the Idmat-ud-Daula, built by the empress Noor Jehan as a memorial to her father Mirza Ghiyas Beg, who was honoured with the title 'Idmat-ud-Daula', which means Pillar of State. This beautifully ornamented memorial has 'parchin kadi', also known as pietra dura, which is exquisite stone inlay and lattice work marble screens.
It is interesting to know that the Idmat-ud-Daula is considered to be Taj Mahal's predecessor and it was here that the white marble tomb was created for the first time in1628. Located in a walled garden, the cypresses and the geometrical designs in the structure are worth noticing.
After my architectural overdoes, I decided to head towards Sadar Bazar, one of the city's popular shopping hubs. Shops selling inlay work in marble and soapstone, built by craftsmen who are supposed descendants of those who worked under the Mughals, caught my fancy. Although a bit overpriced, I ended up buying mini Tajs as gifts for friends. Also intriguing are the carpets, gold thread embroidery or 'zari' as its is known, leather goods, brassware, and semi precious stone jewellery, which might burn a hole in your pocket, but will still make you really happy!
So, the next time you are in Agra, a city with a million flaws, and a million impressive monuments; surrender to the heat, traffic congestion and opportunistic auto drivers and discover why it is called the City of Love.
About the author
Jayita Ekka is a self proclaimed foodie. While travelling she scours recipes that she tries at home. She also likes reading and classic rock music.
So I'm here again, for the second time in two years. Nothing much has changed in Agra. The roads are still full of potholes, the heat is still unbearable and the auto and rickshaw drivers as irritating as ever! But I realize, as I zip to the hotel, the humid air sticking to my back, that the roads are lined with shady trees covered with beautiful flowers, the traffic signals are working and that there are cops at regular intervals to assist visitors. As I pass the red sandstone ruins now overgrown with plants, I am impressed with its unique beauty. I adjust to the laidback life and absorb the transformations in the City of Love and mentally make a note to visit all the historical sites, expecting to unearth more about this historic city. 
orated with inlaid floral designs proposed by Ustad Ahmad Lahouri, and calligraphy by Amanat Khan Shiraji using precious gems like agate, jasper, jade, and crystal. The archway that is chiselled with passages from the Holy Quran renders a unique charisma. 
