A haphazard spread of whitewashed concrete buildings lie at the foothills of Trikuta Mountain. Why an insignificant town draws 8.2 million people annually is hardly a mystery. Katra is the gateway to the Holy Cave Shrine of Vaishno Devi that is on top of the mountain.

Many legends surround the goddess and each one claims that it is a sacred place and that the Mata will make all your wishes come true. At over 5200 ft the goddess is out of reach and a 13 km trek will lead you to her.

Largely influenced by the religious fervor of the devotees who throng its streets Katra stays in line with the beliefs and serves only vegetarian food and alcohol is not allowed here. It is still a small town at heart even when it seems to be in the eye of the storm during peak season and the Navratri Festival around October. A bazaar selling various knick-knacks is the only distraction here.

A helicopter will whisk you away and deliver you at Sanjichhat. If you can't trust your feet, a pony or a palanquin and porters will help you get to the Vaishno Devi Shrine. After seeking the grace of the Mata, if you still have some energy left in you, go further up to the Bhairavnath Temple. After a short rest and food at a bhojanalaya, you can make the trip down.

Reaching the shrine

The Vaishno Devi Cave Shrine atop Trikuta Mountain is 13 km from Katra. While the best way to experience the pilgrimage is by foot, you have many other options to choose from.

Helicopters can drop you off at a helipad in Sanjichhat just 4-5 km from the shrine in less than 10 minutes. Six people can travel together at a time.

Devotees have to register at the Yatra Registration Counter in Katra and get a Yatra slip which is free and valid for six hours. Without the slip you cannot get beyond Baanganga. It is wise to take only the bare essentials. An hour into the trek will make you appreciate the lack of luggage.

You can choose between two paths: a wide, paved path or steep stairs. The stairs can be tedious and don't offer any stops for rest in some places. It will take at least six hours to cover the 13 km. Porters (pithus) carry the palkis. They also come in handy if you have excess luggage and young children who may not be able to climb by themselves. You can hire porters, palanquins and ponies in Katra. The charges are based on the weight.

A new pathway has also been constructed that bypasses the Ardh Kuari. It takes devotees directly to the shrine. Battery operated auto rickshaws for senior citizen run on this route during the day. This route is well laid out like the old route but it is peaceful, since ponies are not allowed on this route.

At the Bhawan, you are subjected to a strict security check. Leather belts, wallets, purses, cameras, cell phones and other electronic equipments are not allowed and have to be deposited in a cloakroom. It is safe to leave your belonging in a cloakroom.

You are given a group number and when your number is called, you can enter the sanctum sanctorum for the darshan. Offer darshan to three Holy Pindis - Kali, Saraswati and Lakshmi. What is interesting to see is that the colour of the caves is associated with the colours of the goddesses.

Another short but strenuous trek will take you to the Bhairavnath Temple or you can return to Katra after eating at the cafeteria. There's a souvenir shop too. Monkeys are a menace around the temple. Avoid feeding them.

Places to see

Patnitop, a hill station, is covered with woods that look like they belong in a fairy tale when it snows. Trekking, camping, paragliding and skiing during winters are a few things you can try here if you are looking for more than a classic picnic in a meadow.

Baba Dhansar, with its springs, waterfalls and leafy trees, is another place made for picnics. After the picnic, take a dip in the sacred Karua Jheel with a wish in mind. It may just be fulfilled. The story in these parts tells us of a saint, Baba Dhansar, who requested Lord Shiva to get rid of a demon. Lord Shiva obliged and is worshipped even today. There's also a natural Shivling and a temple dedicated to Nag (a kind of snake). Mahashivratri is popular here.

Another similar place is Shiv Khori where a four-foot-tall natural Shivling draws many devotees. Squeeze your way into a limestone cave to see the water pouring on top of the lingam. The cave stretches into darkness but no one dares to enter it as there is no oxygen and those who attempted to explore it never came back.

Women who are pregnant often go to Aghar Jitto to take a dip in the sacred spring water so that the baby is born healthy. Baba Jitto was a disciple of Vaishno Devi and also tried to lift the oppressive feudal system. His statue is hard to miss.

In Jahna Kosha, there is a 17th century cannon around 18-foot-long. It also boasts of Kadam Sarif, a mosque known for its understated beauty and the impression of Prophet Hazrat Mohammed's footprint. Another mosque worth a visit is the 16th century Katra Mosque which holds the tomb of Murshid Kuli Khan. Parts of this brick mosque are in ruins but the domes and minarets are mostly intact.

Sikh pilgrims often head to Dera Baba Banda, which is three centuries old. The ashes of Banda Bahadur who had the gurudwara built next to Chenab River are here along with the arrow and sword that Guru Gobind Singh had given him.

Things to do

Katra revolves around the Vaishno Devi Temple and a walk up to the temple is a must. A helicopter will make things easier but the effort it takes to climb up the path along with other devotees who keep up the chant of 'Jai Mata Di' is cathartic. A sense of calm and purpose fills you by the time you reach the shrine.

If you have time to spare, look around the market at Katra for dry fruits, souvenirs and shawls.

Give up alcohol and survive on vegetarian food like Parathas (flatbread) and Rajma-chawal (red beans and rice) while you are here. You might score a drink or a delectable meat dish at private hotels but try to test your endurance. It is part of the game.

Places to eat

There is no dearth of good places to eat either in Katra or on the way to Vaishno Devi shrine. Only vegetarian food is available. You may find a variety of kiosks selling coffee, cold drinks and snacks. The best places to eat on the way to the shrine, however, are many food outlets opened by the Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board. The food here is simple yet delicious and economical. Rajma-chawal is the speciality of the region and almost all restaurants will have this item on the menu. Try it.

Shopping

Dry fruits, shawls and other knickknacks make for excellent shopping items in Katra. Most popular are key chains with your or your friend's name, brass bangles, lockets...etc. Traveller Tips

• The best time to visit Vaishno Devi is from October to April. It is little cold in December and January. The shrine gets crowded during Navratari and in summer vacations.
• Don't forget to register and obtain Yatra Slip from Yatra Registration Counter before starting your journey to the shrine.
• It is better to travel light. Leave all the non-essential items back in Katra.
• It gets little hot during the day especially in summer; it's wise to trek in the night.
• Leather belts, wallets, purses, cameras, cell phones and other electronic equipments are not allowed inside the sanctum sanctorum.
• Timely JKSRTC buses are available from Jammu Railway Station.