Stepping on the soil of Goa is like entering a dream. You feel right at home and light-hearted, as the holiday spirit takes over. There is something in the Goan air that makes fun & cheer infectious, and you can't help but throw away your worries and eat, drink, laugh and enjoy instinctively.

Hop on to a two-wheeler, may be a guttural Enfield. It's not hard to find a ride with rental guys pitching their scooters with corny comments. It is the best way to get around town and to the open invitation of the sun, sand and seafood.

Noisy north Goan beaches, action packed water sports, bright markets, medieval forts, pre-historic rocks, calmer white sand beaches and a parallel hippie culture are some aspects of Goa that you'll come across. History has settled comfortably in Goa, evident in its architecture and the many churches and cathedrals. Old Goa takes her place in the sun once a year during the feast of St Xavier, which is a crowd puller and the trademark celebratory spirit is at its peak. Let's begin the voyage to the craziest Land of India...

• Drugs are illegal. Avoid walking around town alone at night especially if in an inebriated state.
• Strong riptides in the sea and rivers make it unsafe to take a dip in some places at some times. Pay attention to the boards warning you.
• Bring along your driver's permit if you plan to hire a motorbike.
• Sea Snakes often get washed up on the beaches. Stay away from them. Some might be venomous.

It is said that when people leave Goa, a part of them always stays back

For one, drink and be merry! Let a cashew or coconut Feni fly you to moon. Join the crowds at the beaches of Baga, Calangute and Anjuna; or simply dodge them & escape to Butterfly or Agonda beach. Swim, lie back in the sun, play a game of volleyball, walk the edge of a frothy wave, hunt for iridescent shells, sit around a campfire or dance under the stars.

Goa is an adventure in itself, water sports taking it up a step. Diving, catamaran sailing, jet skiing, parasailing, water-scooter, banana boats and windsurfing keeps your heart racing. Surrender to the addictive Goan trance at night parties with the sea crashing at a distance and the stars playing strobe lights. See the world in psychedelic colours.

TTreat yourself to a flouncy chiffon dress, a sparkly pendant the colour of candy floss, rare books and records, or a leather pouch at the flea markets. Let a fortune teller reveal your future. Or get a tattoo inked to make a statement not easily erased.

The countdown to New Year begins in the last week of December with the 3 day music carnival called Sunburn Festival at Candolim beach.

Thousands of people flock Old Goa in the first week of December for the Feast of St Xavier. Bom Jesus Basilica opens its doors at the crack of dawn and many devotees line up to kiss the relics of St Francis Xavier. After the feast, everyone heads to the fair.

The 3 day long pre-easter Goan carnival in February brings Parades, dances, songs and street plays.

The Sao Joao Festival held on 24 June is a Catholic festival that honours St John The Baptist. Son-in-laws are pampered, new brides pray for off-springs and people drink, jump into pools and make music on a ghatam, a clay pot. Butterflies and elephants soar in the sky during the International Kite Festival in Goa. Learn the art of flying kites and join the fun.

The shopping scene in Goa is diverse and colourful. Sarongs and tees from stalls on Baga and Calangute beaches, spices and dry fruits like apricots and cashew nuts in Panjim, Feni everywhere, designer clothes from high end boutiques, quirky and boho clothes, bags & jewellery from flea markets, books at Literati and Other India Bookstore, and of course the odd souvenir or two of bamboo, sea shells and brass. The Wednesday Flea Market at Anjuna, the Friday Flea Market at Mapusa, and Ingo and Mackie Saturday Night Market, all have devout followers.

Wendell Rodricks Design Space, Malini Ramani's Congo, Casa de Goa, Sangolda, Monsoon Heritage, Savio Jon's Sosa and Bruga are a few big names for clothes, accessories and furniture that are floating around.

The plethora of beaches, markets, churches, temples and wildlife, garnished with spices and bakes make sightseeing in Goa out of ordinary.

Some crowded and some unexplored, the beaches have for long been associated with Goa. Start with the noisy and lively Calangute Beach and Baga Beach, for many experiences served on one platter. Candolim is on fire when the Sunburn festival is in town as the year winds up. Wednesday is the day of Anjuna beach with a flea market a big bash at Shore Bar. Satiate your appetite for the quirky, boho and vintage at Ingo's night market and the Mapusa market.

Visit the grand Fort Aguada that has often been on the silver screen, most popularly in Dil Chahta Hai. Rub shoulders with the hippies on Arambol beach and enjoy the beauty of Palolem beach which is slowly being swallowed by tourists.

Who said Goa can't be a pilgrimage? Close to Agonda beach is the Cabo de Rama, a fort where Lord Rama and Sita stopped by during their exile. A small chapel also stands here.

While in south Goa, don't forget to make a side trip to Usgalimal where caves from the Stone Age were discovered as recently as the early 90s. The rock art etched on its walls takes you back by half a million years. Rocks are really hot here and shoes are a must.

These aren't the only caves. Goa seemed to be quite a popular destination for kings in exile in those days! It is said that the Pandavas too came here and stayed at the Arvalem Caves, created by Buddhist monks, near Bicholim Town. The caves in Lamagau village and the many small temples, pipal trees and a tulsi vrindavan are worth a visit. The next time you pass by rocks in Goa give them a second look. They might be over 3000 million years old, possibly the oldest in India.

The other side of Goa's wild life will take you to Mollem National Park and Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary. Trek your way through Mollem and to Dudhsagar Waterfalls, one of the highest in India. Or climb up the watchtower in Cotigao and scour for animals like Bears, Bisons and Hyenas.

Some elegant churches still stand in Goa. The 17th century Church of St Francis of Assisi in Old Goa is one of them. In the same neighbourhood are the Basilica of Bom Jesus where the Feast of St Xavier is held, and the Church Of Our Lady of the Rosary.

While in Panjim, visit Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church and later head to the markets, go on a river cruise, and watch the river and sea merge at Dona Paula. The city beach, Miramar, is also known as Gasper Dias. It attracts migratory birds between November and March, and is great for a long, leisurely stroll.

Good times call for good food and there is plenty of that to be had here. Souza Lobo and The Goan Heritage on Calangute, Nine Bar on Vagator Beach, Curlie's on Anjuna for some wicked Calamari, Britto's on Baga for Crabs and Grills, and Ordo Sounsar and Dropadi on Palolem are a few places of repute. Local delicacies like fish and Vindaloo, a spicy Goan curry are not to be missed. Watch the steely eyed fisherwomen sell their catch in Panjim: mussels, crabs, mackerel, oysters and more.

Of course nothing beats the experience of eating the region's favourite dishes: rice with fish curry or Pork Vindaloo, Prawns Rava Fry, and Xacuti with coconut and poppy seeds. Bebinca, a coconut pancake and Dodol, with coconut, cashews and jaggery, are a sweet way to wrap up a Goan meal.